hated to leave. However, we needed to get back to Oaxaca to begin our
four-day hike in the Peublos Mancomunados area.
Given the previous trecherous bus ride of 6.5 hours, we decided to take an
plane from Puerto Escondido back to Oaxaca City. It was a very small
eight-sitter plane, taking us a half hour to get to Oaxaca.
Arriving in Oaxaca City, we found a hotel for the night and stored most of
our luggage, keeping only enough for a daypack that we would be carrying
during our four-day hike in the Sierra Norte.
The Pueblos Mancommunados (Commonwealth of Villages) are eight remote
Zapotech villages in the thicky forested highlands north of the Valle de
Tlacolula. For centuries, in a unique form of cooperation the villages have
pooled the natural resources of their 290-sq-km territory, which includes
extensive pine and oak forests, sharing the profits from forestry and
other enterprises. Today seven of the villages also cooperate in an
ectotourism program program that offers more than 100km of scenic trails.
Elevations range from 2200m to over 3200m.
The pueblos mancomunados, or joint villages, are run like, for all intensive purposes, a cooperative. All the land is owned communally by the whole village and is allocated to individuals to work, with the proceeds being shared by everyone. When a young person comes of age, they are given a year to decide whether they wish to become part of the commune or want to leave. Some do leave, with the USA and Mexico City being the main destinations. If they decide to stay, they are allocated land, but also have to give one year in three to the community. Jobs are also divided up between the villages, with individuals being elected to particular roles. These include running the tourist facilities or running the village shop. Smaller jobs, liking cleaning the cabins or being a guide, are also divided up, but you may find that your guide may also have another job, such as police chief! The villages also organize business, like timber extraction or running trout farms, which you are likely to see on your treks. Everyone has a stake in the system and in making it work, particularly the tourist business. For this reason, being among these people is a delight, as they are very open and friendly, making it a particularly relaxing place to spend time.
I had forgotten to take my silk underwear for this experience. Preparing
for the trip, I found a pair of long, black tights with sparkle stones up
the sides. It was not an easy thing to find in the 30-degree climate in
Oaxaca. They cost $9.00. It was an interesting store with much activity.
Spending the night in Oaxaca, storing our luggages in two hotels, we left
the next morning Sunday, April 5th, walking to the Second-Class bus
station in the dark 6.30 a.m. We had lost an hour´s sleep due to a time
change. The Second-Class Bus Station was very busy in the morning, with
some people drinking beer at 7.00 a.m. The bathroom in the Bus Station had
a barrel outside from which to take a pail of water to flush the toilet
and wash your hands. Any additional luggage people taking the bus had was
placed on the roof of the bus. The bus left at 8.00 a.m., taking two hours
to reach our destination of Cuajimoloyas. We immediately noticed that it
was much cooler here than in Oaxaca City. We wondered if we had brought
enough clothes to wear, given our small daypacks.
Rose bushes along the trail
Patio and view outside our cabana in La Neveria
Scene from hike from La Neveria to Benito Juarez, 8km.
Scene from hike from La Neveria to Benito Juarez, 8km.
Picture of fireplace in Cabana in Benito Juarez
Monument of Benito Juarez in town square.
Gerald with Guide, Alonzo on way to Cuajimoloyas, 8km.
Gerald eating grasshoppers in Oaxaca City
Courtyard of Hotel Pasada in Oaxaca City
picture 55
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