Thursday, April 2, 2009

Back to Mexico City


Gerald with a new friend

It was bittersweet leaving San Miguel on Sunday, March 29th for Mexico City. By 6´.20a.m. we left for the bus station for our 7.00a.m., 3.5 hour bus journey in a first class bus. Yet again, we were given a sandwich and drink to enjoy on the bus in our spacious, air-conditioned bus, complete with the movie, Erin Brokovich.


Scene from window of Bus from Mexico City to Oaxaca


Thinking we had left a very clean, efficient bus station in San Miguel, we were astounded by the airport-like bus station in Mexico City. It is truly beautiful with its marble floors, ultra modern bathrooms. Upon leaving the bus station we went to a kiosk and bought a taxi cab ´ticket´for the zone, Centro Historico we were going to. Leaving the station we handed our ticket to a man organizing the cabs in a proficient
manner and we were directed to a cab. This method eliminated being swarmed by a number of cab drivers upon leaving a bus station and the fare was ´fair´, no negotiating before getting into the cab.


Govn't building


Mexico City is generally portrayed as an extremely crime-ridden city, so as first-time visitors we were surprised at how safe, and human it felt. In the evenings we went to a couple of favourite restaurants, which served delicious Mexican food.


Night scene in Centro Historico in Mexico City


Night scene in Centro Historico in Mexico City

One of the restaurants, Cafe de Tacuba was a fantasy of coloured tiles, brass lamps and oil paintings. This restaurant has been serving food since 1912. The evening we were here, we enjoyed the sound of a nine-person guitar band serenading us as they played and walked through the restaurant.


Night scene in Centro Historico in Mexico City


The hotel we stayed in the Centro Historico in Mexico city was the Hotel Gillow. Our friends had booked this hotel having stayed there before, enjoying the area and the reasonable rate. The Gillow boasts old-fashioned service and spacious carpeted rooms around a sunlit central courtyard. Our double room was spacious with a very large bathroom, two showers and overlooking one of the very interesting streets in the area.


Govn't building


While in Mexico City for two days we explored its uniqueness. Mexico City has much to offer. This is a city of serene parks and European-style plazas, busy street life and bustling markets, civilzed cantinas, gleaming office towers and centuries-old monasteries and churches. Over a hundred museums display pre'Hispanic, colonial and modern art or cover the city´s long history.


Centro Historico architecture in Mexico City


Mexico City is an endless banquet from soulful taco stalls to world-class restaurants. Music is everywhere on the streets from the ever-present organ grinders to indigenous dancers practicing in an open square.

Mexico City is over 2km high, and the City enjoys a springlike climate year-round. However, much to our surprise (or not), we enjoyed temperatures of around 80 degrees. One day the temperature reached a high of 88 degrees. However, this heat was not humid, but dry and not terribly uncomfortable as one might suspect.

The Centro Historico and Alameda Central is the historic heart of the city.

Mexico City Zocalo


It is the wide plaza known as the Zocalo, surrounded by the presidential palace, the metropolitan cathedral and the excavated site of the main temple of Aztec Tenochititlan.


Zocalo in Mexico City


Zocalo in Mexico City
The 34-block area surrounding the Zocalo is known as the Centro Historico and is crammed with notable old buildings and interesting museums.


zocalo cathedral

Walking in the Zocalo was breath-taking given the grandeur and architecture of the buildings it seemed never-ending. Walking to Alameda Central park, five blocks west of our hotel, we experienced many different festivals of markets, salsa bands and dancing and lovers, families enjoying a Sunday in the Park filled with fountains, statues and lovely landscaping.


market



Dominating the end end of the Alameda is the splendid white-marble palace called the Palacio De Bellas Artes.

Palacio de Belles Artes in Mexico City



Palacio de Belles Artes in Mexico City

It is a concert hall and arts centre commissioned by President Diaz. Construction began in 1905 under an Italian architect, Adamo Boari, who favoured neoclassical and art nouveau styles. Complications arose as the heavy marble shell sank into the spongy subsoil, and then the Mexican Revolution intervened. Architect Federico Mariscal eventually finished the interior in the 1930s, utilizing the more modern art deco style. It was an unbelievably beautiful building on the outside and inside.

Spending time in Mexico City we walked on the Paseo de la Reforma, the grandest boulevard that runs through the city´s heart, connecting the Alameda to the Bosque de Chapultepec.


The Monumento a la Independenica (Angel of Independance) on the Paseo de la Reforma Boulevard

Along the way, the Monumento a la Independencia (aka El Angel) marks the northern side of the Zona Rosa, a glitzy shopping, hotel and nightlife, restaurant district.


Outdoor Art Exhibit in Centro Historico (Old church in background), Mexico City

Along this boulevard we encountered statures, and sculptures of seating by
various artists. Yet another indicator of Mexicans love of art.

The Zona Rosa (Pink Zone) was developed as an international playground and shopping district during the 1950´s when it enjoyed a cosmopolitan panache.

Zona Rosa District, Antique District

People-watching from its sidewalk cafes reveals a high degree of diversity than elsewhere.

Zona Rosa District, Street Scene
We enjoyed lunching here, people-watching and listening to the various bands playing. In this area there was an exquisite antique area. We saw some of the most beautiful things there.

Outdoor Art Exhibit in Centro Historico, Mexico City


While in Mexico City we went to the Museo De Arte Popular, recently opened
in 2006. This is a major showcase for Mexico´s folk arts and traditions.

Museo de Arte Popular Exhibit (Costumes of Indigenous Populations in Mexico City

Contemporary crafts from all over Mexico are thematically displayed on the museum´s three levels, including pottery from Michacan, carnival masks from Chiapas and Alebrijes (animal figures) from Oaxaca and trees of life from Puebla. The museum itself is an outstanding example of 1920´s art deco by architect Vicente Mendiola.



Frida Kahlo home


Frida Kahlo home


Enjoying Mexico City so very much, it was difficult to think about having to leave. However, knowing that we would be coming back and have some time to explore it more was reassuring to us. On Tuesday, March 31st, our friends left Mexico City to return home, as we set out to go to Oaxaca City.

Leaving Mexico City on a first-class bus, we set out on a six and half-hour ride to connect with the Sierra Norte Tour to begin a hiking experience from village to village in the mountains.

To be continued.... going for a walk on the beach to see the sunset yet again.

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